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Surfing was my favorite thing ever, a pursuit that requires letting go of everything but attention to the demands of the situation. I spent hours, years really, in, on and just watching those waves, acquiring visceral understanding. From dangerous storm surge to flat and glassy, the atmosphere diffuse with salt water, softening edges and color, night and day. Take it in and put it back out. How to show what I see, or don't see? The Atlantic coast off New England isn't only blue.

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